What is the feasibility of a Solar PV system with Heat Pump in the SF Bay area?


Question:
We are doing a major renovation to our house which requires a replacement of the heating/cooling system (sufficient for 2500 sq ft). Considering that California has a significant rebate program for PV cells, and the desire to be green, how long would it take to break even on a system of this nature as compared to a regular gas furnace/electric AC? We have great southern exposure, plenty of roof and alot of sun as we are in the South Bay.

Answer:
I live in Martinez and have a 6 kW system in a house of about 2200 sq ft. I live alone, and am quite frugal with heating and air conditioning. I heat water with gas.

I am able to zero out at the end of the year, having generated just about as much as I use.

If your roof is pitched and the ridge line runs close to east and west, and with a 6kw system, you should be able to generate as much as I do. My system is shut down tonight, but tomorrow I will take a reading and amend this response with the average annual output. This will give you an idea of what to expect.

As to the heat pump, I just don't know. If I were to replace my furnace and AC, I would get a heat pump. Unless someone convinced me it was not worthwhile, I would have the return line extended for a considerable distance underground. Not a true ground source system, but to do some precooling or heating to assist the heat pump.

Sunday AM
Over the past four years my system has generated an average of 5,100 kilowatt hours per year.

One more thing. I have nothing shading my system in the summertime, and only a bit of shading in winter. If you have trees or other things that will shade your system, all bets are off..
And one more thing. Not everyone can do it, but my modules are just over the garage and a large overhang. I didn't want them over the attic, fearing roof leaks some day. I have had one small leak in the garage, and was so happy I did it that way. If the modules had to be over the attic, I would have had the installer mount them higher above the roof than they usually do, with the mounts easily accessible. That way one could recaulk them periodically, and/or if there were a leak.
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